Tire Pull

Do you know how to Diagnose Tire Pull? If you work at Used Tire Shops then I’m sure you do; but for people like me, I need some explanation to it. Hence, the reason for this article. Let’s start with the basics:

New & Used Tires are made by assembling different components made of things like rubber, fabric cord and steel wire. These elements are cured together in a specific type of mold. When the rubber is placed under intense heat and pressure during the curing process, it then reaches somewhat of a liquid state before vulcanization takes place by finalizing the tire's exact size, structure and shape.

The the tire’s internal components are somehow misaligned as it cures, there’s a high possibility that unequal internal forces can cause your car to pull to the side, even if you think you’re steering straight. If this happens when you get a new set of 16” Used Tires .. then it might not be considered such a big deal as you think it is. The problem may be caused by a manufacturing glitch where the tire's tread has curved slightly cone shaped rather than in the desirable uniform cylinder shape.

Trust me, it’s not a big deal; but if you want to get it fixed as soon as you find out - then by all means, go get it fixed.

The used tires that have this issue will be pretty obvious either right after the Used Tire Shops installs them or immediately after the first time the tires are rotated .. if you get your tires rotated. Because of this reason, more & more tire manufacturers warranties are only covering this issue early in the tire's life .. which seems pretty fair if you ask me.

If the tire pull becomes more and more noticeable after the more miles that you drive on the tire, it is basically either due to one of two things: driving conditions or vehicle misalignment that has caused the tire’s tread to wear on an angle. When it’s at an angle, this means that one side is wearing faster than the other - just in case you didn’t know.

As soon as you notice that you have a pulling problem, you should get it checked immediately - or as soon as you have the chance to get it checked. If the alignment is checked and it’s at the manufacturer's preferred settings or appropriately within the range, there’s a procedure that can be used in order to make sure & confirm which tire is causing the pull.

Step 1 : Rotate the two front tires from side to side. If the car pulls to the opposite side, the defective tire is obviously one of the front ones (next is step 2). If it pulls to the same direction, it might be one of the rear used tires or it might not even be the used tires at all.

Step 2 : Rotate the front tire on the side of the car that is in the direction of the pull, move it to the rear of the car. If there’s not a pull anymore or if it’s reduced greatly, the tire that was moved to the back of the car was the defective one. If the pulling still doesn’t stop, the defective tire is isolated to the front tire that was not moved in step 2.

Hopefully you understand & hopefully this helped!